East Himalaya

Saturday, August 25, 2012

My Darjeeling is Smiling

Siliguri, 20th August, 2012: It was not a easy decision for Sano, the dirt track through the Upper FaguTea Estate has just been blacktopped halfway to Nim Busty, which would finally connect Lava. Her small tea shop has seen a few tourists, which has never happened before and she has managed to save a few thousand rupees. Maila Bau, who used to drive the old Mahindra Jeep on this route from Sombarey Bazaar (Gorubathan) had married her and one day abandoned her with two children. She learnt that the 55 year old man had returned to her first wife at Phulbari. Now she supports herself and the two children from this tea shop. Overlooking the beautiful Valleys of Rumjhum, Lathe, Fagu and Chel rivers, she remembers how she as a child came to the Gorubathan weekly market with her father from Pathorjhora and return back with fresh fishes, fancy chocolates and colourful new clothes. 
Since then she admired the smart hill drivers and made up her mind to marry one of them. She did her schooling at a Bengali medium high school at Oodlabari and was good at studies, but then her luck took her with Maila Bau of whom she knew nothing but that he was a friend of her uncle from Chimney. Few years ago she had gone to visit her granny (mother’s mother) at Yelbong and found one German old man and two young Indian men staying at a homestay there. In the evening she witnessed a workshop on homestay and waste management by these visitors and this motivated her to start with her own homestay. There is peace in the Darjeeling Hills since the last almost one year and tourists have been flowing in, this she thought was a good opportunity, but then she needed some seed fund to start with. 
Eid Mubarak to all of you reading this blog. Darjeeling Mail, Kanchan Kanya Express and Padatik Express, the 03 major overnight trains from North Bengal to Kolkata are all jam packed. Even in this off-season to see thousands of visitors in Darjeeling Hills and Dooars was probably forgotten. Tashi, Ombahadur and Karki of the Darjeeling Lodge had thought would go to their house at Namthang, the owner had initially agreed but they decided to stay back, as the more tourists means more tips for them, sometimes it is even more than their salary. The ecoguides at Chilapata and Jaldapara were more busy taking their guests in the forest villages and introducing them to the interesting cultures, also the tea plucking and processing in the factory was almost a half day program.
There is ‘busyness’ almost all over Darjeeling Hills. The NH-55 or Hillcart Road which had given away on 16th June, 2010 at Pagla Jhora, 28th September, 2011 at Tindharia, after which some work had started, but finally gave in on 19th July, 2012. The continuity of the World Heritage Site, Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (DHR) from Siliguri to Darjeeling is also disrupted since then. The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway Society based at London has given a Press release dated 7th August, 2012 to almost 2000 of its members worldwide that from 6 August 2012 the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (DHR) introduced an enhanced timetable for the upper section of the line between Darjeeling and Kurseong. The move follows the transfer by road to Darjeeling of B Class locos 788 and 802, NDM6 diesel 601 and four carriages. An additional steam tourist ‘Joy Train’ service leaves Darjeeling for Ghum via Batasia Loop at 0800hrs complementing the existing departures at 1040, 1320 and 1600hrs.
The existing diesel-hauled return service from Darjeeling to Kurseong is now matched by a new service leaving Kurseong at 0700hrs and arriving Darjeeling at 0945hrs (later timings than the former ‘School Train’ which ended in 2007). The train returns from Darjeeling at 1600hrs arriving Kurseong at 1840hrs. On the lower section of the line the daily diesel-hauled ‘Jungle Safari’continues to run between Siliguri Junction and Rangtong. Elsewhere the DHR remains breached by landslips at two locations. Repair of the breach at PaglaJhora is due to be complete by the end of 2012. At Tindharia a second recent landslip has added to problems and threatens the railway workshop. However, urgent stabilisation work is under way, finance for repairs is agreed and the Railway Minister has committed to the entire DHR route being fully operational again by the end of 2013. Said David Barrie, Chairman DHRS “Indian Railways is showing real imagination, determination and commitment to overcoming the challenges caused by the severe landslips. These additional services are most welcome. The DHR’s future is bright!”
Other Local and Living Heritage efforts continue to dot the area, specially the town of Darjeeling. A small corner of the Ajit Mansion, the Pineridge Hotel on Darjeeling Mall can see an extension to Food Steps, this could be the best choice for some of good Darjeeling food, which is basically continental, Chinese, oriental and local East Himalayan food, all adopted into a tasteful Darjeeling style, which has survived and has been liked for more than a century. Do not forget to try the flat noodles and red hot pork. We now find several of the restaurants in town serve the Darjeeling thali, but the most authentic ones can still be tasted at the 400 odd homestays spread throughout the hills.
The Swiss Hotel is busy preparing for the 100 years celebration, as an introduction, the Darjeeling Heritage Walk has already been started and the ‘Darjeeling Heritage Club’ is due to open in a month’s time. One must miss the Darjeeling Talk session being planned at the Darjeeling Heritage Club, while on a visit to Darjeeling. Also information for Heritage trails of entire Northeast will be available here. This is one of the heritage styled properties since 1914 with lots of history, 13 rooms with functional fire places and the ‘whistling steam’ restaurant from where the morning views of the mountains are clear or a short three minutes walk to the exercise of the steam engines at Darjeeling Station may be observed.
Ms. Mole Susen Annette, from USA, born on 20th February 1955 had visited The Swiss Hotel at an age of 14, during the monsoon months of July or August for 02 nights (exact dates she does not remember) and had the opportunity to see the snow capped range of Mt.Kanchenjunga for about 20minutes. She again revisited The Swiss Hotel with her friends and family recently on the 31st of July, 2012 and stayed at the same room ‘Jamling’. She became very nostalgic during her stay. 

The Oberoi Everest just above The Swiss Hotel has probably taken a decision in their last meeting to start work on their elaborate 100 roomed Heritage property and reopen the same. A big modern Mall has replaced the nostalgic Capital Cinema, but Joey’s Pub round the corner still carries forward the Living Culture of Darjeeling, the nostalgia. Anjan Dutt, the famous actor turned director, a committed Darjeeling lover would not do Darjeeling without Joey. The small Masoom Bakery near the Sonada Railway Station is also preparing for the season. The bakery has maintained the quality of product through generations and is known for their authenticity like the DHR. As this is not easily visible, they can be contacted at 9679155534. The Darjeeling Tourism Information Centre on the Mall, the Glass House like structure just opposite to the approach to Windermere Hotel has been just reopened to visitors, almost after 01 year. Kadambari and Mikey can be contacted here as before and probably more enthusiastic in giving information to visitors.
I remember my childhood days, when the Independence Day of India, 15th August used to be celebrated with all colours and involvement at Kurseong, Takdah and a few other places. After a long time, this year again, I have experienced the return of this spontaneity among the local people. Even in the remote village of Kolakham, popularly known as Neora, which has emerged as a model tourism village, the Kolakham Primary School celebrated the Independence Day with all pomp and glory, including 03 schools of the area and almost all villagers.
‘Guess the Grains’, a few maize grains are put in a transparent container and you can take it in your hand, shake it and guess the number of maize grains. If your guess is close, you win a special prize. This was the only game I could win, I guessed 686 and the number was 688. Will wait for the congratulations messages for my win; please do not forget to put it in the comments of this blog. 

Few months back, the North Bengal Development Minister had gone to inaugurate a Dooars Sangrahalaya (collection) and the school for Bakpa Dance, a local community initiative at Kalchini. He said here how important tourism was to North Bengal, mainly for Darjeeling Hills and Dooars and how his Government gave tourism all the priority. The GTA Chief has just taken over his office at Lal Kothi at Darjeeling and he clearly declared that Tourism will be the backbone for development and will be taken up in convergence with all other Departments. The Rohini and Pankhabari roads will be toll roads and will be maintained well. Standardization of accommodation, food and transport tariff will be given priority. Peace, prosperity and poverty alleviation through tourism will be priority. The Chief Minister during the one year celebration of her tenure declared, ‘My Darjeeling is Smiling’.
Note: For the privacy of some individuals, some names, places and references have been changed.


  1. good one rajda ....very nostalgic ...btw when is the NH55 stated to open ... how i wish to see the pagla jhora in its full glory during monsoons...

  2. Great and positive news after a long time. Very timely. Hope the trend continues and peace and good sense prevails. Reviving the nostalgia will take time but its all there still in the hearts of the people. Kudos to your work and positive spirit.

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