Teesta, the story of a river from East Himalaya

The Coronation Bridge (Baghpool) on River Teesta is a popular photo-spot about 25kms from Siliguri, Teesta enters the foothills here

This is the story of a small mountain river from the East Himalaya which recently came into global highlight with the Chief Minister of the State of West Bengal in Northeast India saying ‘no’ to the sharing of the Teesta River waters with the neighbouring country of Bangladesh. This like a mother in dilemma who had to say ‘no’ to provide water to her own children (people living in the North of West Bengal) at the cost of a global mother image, where she could have easily said ‘yes’ with the rest of the country, the heads, who fail to understand the plight of the local people living around the Teesta River. The matter has reached so far that even the US official mission to the Indian subcontinent  led by Hillary Clinton made it a point to visit the Chief Minister of West Bengal first, on her way from Dhaka, Bangladesh to New Delhi, India, while the usual trend is that in such official visits the country capital is touched upon first.  While building the dams for hydroelectric power, no one is consulted, whereas as in principle, all the stakeholders living along the rivers should be made part of it. The economic part of the river is mostly highlighted on; the ecological part is almost forgotten.

As per the global data, 24% of land resource is in the mountains, 12% of the total world human population lives in mountains and 40% of the total world human population directly or indirectly depend on mountain river water. The mountain river water is mainly used by the human population in general in their diet, urbanization, agriculture, energy etc. Forest cover and mountain rivers have a symbiotic relation, hence healthy forest covers are a must to confirm healthy mountain rivers. It is the lack of balance between human population needs, forest covers and Mountain Rivers that we are losing our chances to ‘Climate Change’. Studies suggest that the demand for water from Mountain Rivers will double by 2050.

We have divided land politically, now we are dividing water, with our so called development we will probably divide our skies, but who is going to listen to the life and stories of people who live beyond the politics of the world. This is an effort to listen to the people who live or lived along the wonderful river Teesta landscape, which originates from the glaciers of Sikkim and flows down about 315 kms to meet the River Brahmaputra (Jamuna in Bangladesh). Several river and stream networks meet the River Teesta at different parts of her journey. These are the roots of human life through ages. Please follow the Teesta in this blog. 

Rabindra Jayanti celebrated at Selimhill Tea Bungalow, Tindharia, Darjeeling

Suhas Basu, in this picture reads out portions from 'Shesher Kabita' during Rabindra Jayanti celebrations at Selimhill Tea Bungalow, where he had last visited 51 years ago as a freshly joined engineer at Kurseong. This Bungalow and the adjoining areas were frequented by 02 Noble Laureates from West Bengal, India, Gurudev Rabindranath Tagore and Mother Teresa. The stone Bungalow here stands here for the past 175 years to witness the sailing decades of Darjeeling. The nostalgia of the place brings back several of the visitors of the past. The owners of the Tea Estate Selimhill did not want to deprive the visitors and has kindly allowed this property to be used for hosting guests. The locals myth that goes around: From the estate's first manager to all those who have visited the Selimhill Tea Estate, had to come back as a visitor because of the mesmerizing attraction of the place. This is a kind of extension of the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (Toy Train), World Heritage Site at Tindharia, which has many more memories scattered around Tindharia and Gayabari. Suhas Basu, now the President with Fuleswari Nandini, a group of cultural enthusiasts, mostly women from Siliguri and Jalpaiguri area, has taken the initiative to pay respects to the Great Man, Gurudev Rabindranath Tagore at the Selimhill Tea Bungalow.

The Fuleswari Nandini Members with the photograph of Gurudev

Selimhill Tea Bungalow: The President along with his niece, Mahua Choudhury, also the Founder Secretary of this group in front of the 175 years old stone bungalow

A report on the event written in Bengali

    

Back to Kolkata after 100 years

It was Calcutta then. The capital of India was shifted to Delhi, almost a 100 years ago, one of the reasons were patriotism and the British were not being able to take it. Then came the 2nd World War, the Japanese took control of the CBI (China-Burma-India) theater. At home there was war against the Imperialistic orders, so far so that the flag of Independent India flew in Manipur. 

Let us try and go back a few thousand years, during the time of the Silk Route. Very little is known about the East and Northeast India, but the traces of Buddhism in the area and beyond is the proof of the glory of those days. An area which did not give up to any of the imperialistic ruling. An area which is the connectivity for resources for India to flourish.

The present visit of Hillary Clinton reflects the vision of United States America. She was in China, followed by Bangladesh and then to West Bengal (we must remember this is only a state under the country India) to go further to the country capital, New Delhi. We have all been watching the rise of Myanmar recently. If peace prevails, the time is not far off when India will have to review her 'Look East' policy from Delhi and make a shift to Kolkata, 'Look from East'. 

CHAUTARE, the storytellers from East Himalaya: Atithi Devo Bhavo

CHAUTARE, the storytellers from East Himalaya: Atithi Devo Bhavo: 14 Apr, 2012 Jaipur: It is about 05 years back that I had attended the GITB (Great Indian Travel Bazaar) at Jaipur. It was then a small sh...

Atithi Devo Bhavo

14 Apr, 2012 Jaipur: It is about 05 years back that I had attended the GITB (Great Indian Travel Bazaar) at Jaipur. It was then a small show which the then FICCI chief, Amit Mitra was proud about. Today, when I saw the preparations, I was amazed with the participation and the investment for the 02 day event. This certainly shows quality boom in the travel industry in the Indian mainland (West, North and South India). The flags of the several countries, representing the buyers, certainly leave an impression on the hospitality industry of India still governed by the age old tradition of ‘Atithi Devo Bhavo’. The strength of this growth lies in the increasing quality services, enhanced by the warm hospitality attitude of the common Indian on road who goes out of the way to be friendly.

Where is the East then, the part of the subcontinent that is the gateway to South and Southeast Asia. We have either failed to gauze the potential or we have avoided because of the ‘China Mania’. It has hardly been 100 years that the country capital shifted from the East, the reason was that the people here initiated the struggle for Freedom. The region, which had relieved the world during human crisis from time to time through the great religious reforms, today fails to make a noticeable presence at this GITB. Is it the lack of political will locally and nationally. On the 6^th and 7^th of this month, when the Sikkim North Bengal saw its first snow, instead of inviting visitors, a group of politicians decided to call a ‘Bandh’. They would not understand that the visitor has nothing to do with the local issues and that the bookings were made quite in advance. Even in an organized fashion of tourism development, the said region supports 70% of the youths’ meaningful engagement directly or indirectly in tourism. Disturbing a visitor would mean, losing an opportunity to gain global sympathy for the issue for which the Bandh has been called, disturbing the opportunity for growth of the biggest global industry (tourism is the only industry where the buyer comes to the product) and neglecting our tradition of ‘Atithi Devo Bhavo’.

Orissa or Odisha, whatever we call, has been the seat of hospitality. When there was no concept of tourism for the world, pilgrims spent a few days in the hospitality of the Pandas. Chaitanya Mahaprabhu achieved Nirvana there in Puri, and through ages several people from across the world followed the path. Paolo Bosusco was no exception, he had made Puri his home. Sabyasachi Panda and his group, who probably had several silent supporters for his cause completely lost ground for keeping the Italian in captivity. Back home, as an Indian I can guarantee that even his mother or wife would not support this act. Is this our tradition of ‘Atithi Devo Bhavo’.

The time has come when the Indian and Global travel industry has to harness this new ground for tourism, East and Northeast India. Another India that is beyond the Palaces and snake charmers, an India which is the mirror of South and Southeast Asia put together, an India where hospitality is still in the houses and hearts of people as ‘Atithi Devo Bhavo’.    

Burma Break

For the past 03 to 04 days, all news channels and print media has been celebrating the success of Madam Aung San Suu Kyi and her party, NLD’s success in Myanmar. Her sacrifice for democracy is being compared with leaders like Mr.Nelson Mandela and Mahatma Gandhi. India is busy highlighting her connections through her schooling and college in this country.

We often fail to go a little behind and discover that even her great father, General Aung San has close connections with India, mainly with Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose. He has made visits to Calcutta and Delhi and has made speeches for freedom. Both, General Aung San and Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose will be remembered as the great freedom fighters for Asia.

During my recent visit to Myanmar, my enthusiastic driver did not forget to drive me twice in front of Madam Suu Kyi’s house. I have always felt that her perseverance and her form of political movement come from the deep rooted Buddhist traditions. From extreme corners of Myanmar to the heart of Yangon, I have seen her place in the hearts of people.

Burma and Eastern India have always been 02 sides of a coin since centuries, starting from Buddhism, trade, British Colony, 2^nd World War CBI (China-Burma-India) theatre and above all the people. It is only in the post Independence period and later we identify India’s East & Northeast and Myanmar differently. For both the areas to prosper sustainably, we need to open all the old trade routes through land, even if necessary, consider the routes passing through Bangladesh, between Myanmar and Eastern India. 

The maximum movement as I have understood was during the mid nineteenth century onwards, when the British India, headquartered in Calcutta sent several people from then Eastern India, which included Bangladesh to Burma for supporting the British administrative system. Even several entrepreneurs went from the Eastern part to start a set-up there. While in Bangladesh, I suppose some very enthusiastic youths at some place in Chittagong (probably St.Martin’s Island) did show me ‘Moger Muluk’ in Burma, which I found later was the upcoming commercial centre, Akyab in the past, now known as Sittwe.

Pidusai, Loose Street, 59 street etc are some common names I hear from my friends who have migrated from Burma in 1965-66. Some of their families had medicine shop, some grocery shop etc. In Siliguri some of them still retain the same name of their establishment. While talking to my friend Amal, medicine shop owner, he confirmed that his parents had reached the then Rangoon through the said route. They were owners of Medicine Shop there also. Post independence in Burma, since 1962, when shops were taken over, bank accounts were freezed and schools were brought to local medium by the then Burma Government, they left Burma and finally decided to come and settle in North Bengal. No one was thrown out, but given an offer to be employees in their own shops. Those who wanted to leave were given passage money for ship or flight and some pocket expenses. We have many such families today in West Bengal, whose birth place was Burma.

Many of them, mainly the Baruas being Buddhists stayed on, who have now taken local Myanmarese names through inter-marriage. There is some influence and connectivity of Christianity along the western borders, mainly from Mizoram of India’s Northeast. Islam is quite noticeable in Yangon and to some extend in Mandalay, so is Hinduism. The Durga Mandir still is a landmark of the Burma & Eastern India ties, and still survives in its full glory. Even many Myanmarese communities have migrated to India. In the North Andaman Islands I remember visiting some Karen villages near Diglipur-Mayabandar. Though they were all Christians, yet they had a rich Burmese tradition. I remember some local administration personnel mentioning regular arrival of Myanmarese fishing boats to the northern side of the Andaman Islands.

All the above discussions are to bring into light that inspite of continuing illegal human movements, forced political borders and closing of land and water based trade routes, which have suppressed the once naturally, culturally and economically resourceful areas, it will be difficult to do so for a long time. Tourism can be the igniting factor again. A freely intersecting tourism circuits based on the rivers through Ganga, Brahmaputra, Irrawaddy and Mekong, covering the extraordinary horse-shoe, namely the Indian and Malayan peninsulas with Yunan as the crown could beat almost all tourism areas of the world. The similarity and diversity, the heritage of Buddhism - Tea - Weaving, and the natural tendency to be committed hosts could set up a new grammar for the global tourism industry tomorrow.  

A Forest Officer from Assam

Today morning almost all National and regional dailies carried the news of Abhijit Rabha, the CCF of Assam Forest Department being kidnapped at Singhasana Hill in Karbi Anglong by Militant groups from the area. These areas of Assam are some of the most beautiful and biodiversity rich areas of Northeast. Once the most touristic areas of Assam, had turned into the most terrorist infested hubs, for several reasons of misunderstanding between the Governments and local societies living in isolation. One such area that I know of is Manas Biosphere Reserve, a Tiger Reserve and a World Heritage Site as well.

This was towards the beginning years of the millennium, Mr.Rabha was then the Field Director of the Manas Tiger Reserve had called on Help Tourism and I was a part of the team. The first trip was to Mothanguri, the access through the Bansbari Range office and then 16kms. It was probably early monsoons, somewhere near Anandabazar, I remember pushing the UNESCO jeep through the wet and muddy roads, but could finally see the area which was being well managed by celebrity Range Officer, Mohan Brahma. Early morning when we went by elephant back to Doimari, the local forest guard told us we cannot go beyond because across the river was a terrorist area.

The next day when I asked Mr.Rabha in his office about the area, he showed a video footage by him. A small but dreaded, so called Bodo militant group, which worked out of the ABSU office in Lakkhi Baazar at Kokilabari was interested in conservation of Manas, and so was Mr.Rabha, as this was the core area in Eastern Manas. He said that we had to help him out, but warned us that the area did not have a good reputation for the last 02 decades of happening from the area. As a team we requested him if the said team in the video footage could be contacted and we could have a meeting the next day. He organized it.

Early morning from Barpeta via the National Highway 31 (27?) we reached Pathsala and then road rafting through the NH 152, 30 kms to Lakkhi Baazar, which took us more than 03 hrs, we were at the legendary ABSU office. We were received in the traditional Bodo way with Arnya (Bodo Handloom scarfs, very colourful), the tekli pitha (steamed rice cakes), bananas and sweetened black tea. We could understand the confidence that this group of youth had on Mr.Rabha. After this the narration were like stories, on how they lived, what they did...the matter of fact was that for 02 decades there was no Government help, not even a postman reached with a letter. From a planned hours meeting we stayed on for days.

With Mr.Rabha’s unconditional support and the dedication of the Bodo youths down the years, we achieved the impossible, we created a community based conservation model, just opposite to the state sponsored imperialistic model, Manas Maozigendri Ecotourism Society. Tourism helping in complimentary livelihood, social development and local empowerment with ownership on conserving the local Natural Resources (a UNESCO World Heritage Site for the world) was the result.

Later during the Manas Centenary closing ceremony at Kokilabari, the most dynamic Mr.Kampa Borgoyari, the Deputy Chief of Bodoland Territorial Council, sitting at the our MMES Doimari (Dwimari) Camp almost ordered me that your work at this site has finished, now it is time you travel extreme west to Ultapani and try and connect East to West of Manas with similar projects. The work is on, but it was hard to get another Abhijit Rabha, who was by then promoted and posted out of Manas.

It is impossible that a man dedicated to the local communities, who firmly believe in community participation in any development, who has shown the country the success of community based conservation, being abducted or kidnapped by some local terrorist groups. Recently a few groups from the area had surrendered and probably the Assam Rifles have established a good base in the forests in Singhasana Hill. Also, that the team which went for the survey of which Mr.Rabha was a member was consisting more than 60 members. I suppose we need to see more deeply into the issue. If it is question of ransom, let the Forest Department set up an account for the purpose and I am sure several common people will contribute towards it, I mean even common villagers from all over Assam. This should be a message for the Militant group that Abhijit Rabha is a friend of the common man and such an act would be condemned.