East Himalaya

Sunday, March 4, 2012

A Forest Officer from Assam


Today morning almost all National and regional dailies carried the news of Abhijit Rabha, the CCF of Assam Forest Department being kidnapped at Singhasana Hill in Karbi Anglong by Militant groups from the area. These areas of Assam are some of the most beautiful and biodiversity rich areas of Northeast. Once the most touristic areas of Assam, had turned into the most terrorist infested hubs, for several reasons of misunderstanding between the Governments and local societies living in isolation. One such area that I know of is Manas Biosphere Reserve, a Tiger Reserve and a World Heritage Site as well.
This was towards the beginning years of the millennium, Mr.Rabha was then the Field Director of the Manas Tiger Reserve had called on Help Tourism and I was a part of the team. The first trip was to Mothanguri, the access through the Bansbari Range office and then 16kms. It was probably early monsoons, somewhere near Anandabazar, I remember pushing the UNESCO jeep through the wet and muddy roads, but could finally see the area which was being well managed by celebrity Range Officer, Mohan Brahma. Early morning when we went by elephant back to Doimari, the local forest guard told us we cannot go beyond because across the river was a terrorist area.
The next day when I asked Mr.Rabha in his office about the area, he showed a video footage by him. A small but dreaded, so called Bodo militant group, which worked out of the ABSU office in Lakkhi Baazar at Kokilabari was interested in conservation of Manas, and so was Mr.Rabha, as this was the core area in Eastern Manas. He said that we had to help him out, but warned us that the area did not have a good reputation for the last 02 decades of happening from the area. As a team we requested him if the said team in the video footage could be contacted and we could have a meeting the next day. He organized it.
Early morning from Barpeta via the National Highway 31 (27?) we reached Pathsala and then road rafting through the NH 152, 30 kms to Lakkhi Baazar, which took us more than 03 hrs, we were at the legendary ABSU office. We were received in the traditional Bodo way with Arnya (Bodo Handloom scarfs, very colourful), the tekli pitha (steamed rice cakes), bananas and sweetened black tea. We could understand the confidence that this group of youth had on Mr.Rabha. After this the narration were like stories, on how they lived, what they did...the matter of fact was that for 02 decades there was no Government help, not even a postman reached with a letter. From a planned hours meeting we stayed on for days.
With Mr.Rabha’s unconditional support and the dedication of the Bodo youths down the years, we achieved the impossible, we created a community based conservation model, just opposite to the state sponsored imperialistic model, Manas Maozigendri Ecotourism Society. Tourism helping in complimentary livelihood, social development and local empowerment with ownership on conserving the local Natural Resources (a UNESCO World Heritage Site for the world) was the result.
Later during the Manas Centenary closing ceremony at Kokilabari, the most dynamic Mr.Kampa Borgoyari, the Deputy Chief of Bodoland Territorial Council, sitting at the our MMES Doimari (Dwimari) Camp almost ordered me that your work at this site has finished, now it is time you travel extreme west to Ultapani and try and connect East to West of Manas with similar projects. The work is on, but it was hard to get another Abhijit Rabha, who was by then promoted and posted out of Manas.
It is impossible that a man dedicated to the local communities, who firmly believe in community participation in any development, who has shown the country the success of community based conservation, being abducted or kidnapped by some local terrorist groups. Recently a few groups from the area had surrendered and probably the Assam Rifles have established a good base in the forests in Singhasana Hill. Also, that the team which went for the survey of which Mr.Rabha was a member was consisting more than 60 members. I suppose we need to see more deeply into the issue. If it is question of ransom, let the Forest Department set up an account for the purpose and I am sure several common people will contribute towards it, I mean even common villagers from all over Assam. This should be a message for the Militant group that Abhijit Rabha is a friend of the common man and such an act would be condemned.

Monday, January 23, 2012

Netaji Cabin


For those who live in Siliguri or those who have lived in Siliguri or even those who have some affinity to this ethnicity Siliguri, would have certainly shared a cup of tea with friends at Netaji Cabin. A very indistinct food joint, to be specific lounge in the one of the bylanes in Bidhan Market, at the heart of Siliguri sells toasts, country eggs to choice and tea-coffee-milk (whichever preferred). The tea here is very special, an extra toasted bitter flavour and taste makes a kind of addiction for the regular patrons. Many youth dreams originated here and ended here as an old man, many have left this city with dreams to come true, but are more than nostalgic about Netaji Cabin. This news is for them.
 
Netaji or Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose, whom the people of East and Northeast India still see as the Father of Indian Freedom from the British Empire, and worship as God in several households, irrespective of language, class, creed and religion, is the name behind this Netaji Cabin. Hence, it could be understood that a lot of idealistic intellectuality bred here in the past. Today, with the changing time this is a lounge where starting from ‘morning walkers’ to ‘evening adda’, a meeting place for all age groups belonging to different communities and professions. 
The 2nd generation owner, continuing from father did not forget to honour Netaji in his photo hung on the wall. This 365 days busy shop does not forget this day, and even everyone is busy reading newspapers, gossiping or eating a breakfast, the owner silently cleans the photo and garlands the photo of Netaji with fresh flowers. He does not forget to put some colourful marigold flower chains in front to remind his patrons that today is Netaji’s birthday.


Every year I am usually at a function with VIPs garlanding a big Netaji statue, with lectures, songs and dance, but this year with this event at Netaji Cabin, this silent honour saw a drop of tear roll down my cheeks, which luckily and immediately hid in my beard. We in India, even today have not realized that, if India has to go ahead, she will have to open her borders with South and Southeast Asia, India has to look EAST. Netaji had hoisted the flag of Independent India at Manipur much before the actual Independence of the actual peninsular India. We as Indians still fail to recognize the same. We need to nurture our relations with Myanmar (Burma), Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand and other countries which Netaji has cultured during his time. 
Netaji’s Birthday is being celebrated with much enthusiasm all over Siliguri, with blood donation camps, free blanket distribution to the poor and several other ways of social and cultural origin. Not to forget the sports events, which takes place throughout North Bengal. Most of India, mainly the Defence forces used to celebrate Netaji’s Birthday in a big way, I suppose they still continue. Let India get together to live HIS dreams. 

Note: For those who have not visited Siliguri for a long time, please be informed that the legendary Kalpana Pice Hotel, which was opposite to the Netaji Cabin is no more. Kalpana Pice Hotel was famous for its 'Chital Machher Peti and Bhat'.