The application is there with the UNESCO office for
recognization of the area with large valleys of rice surrounded by mountains of
Bamboo and Pine Sacred Groves as World Heritage Site. The Japanese experts say
that the indigenous variety of rice is the highest density known globally. This
grows in the Apatani Valley as wet cultivation, with fishes (mainly carps)
growing in the water of the rice valleys helping them to grow faster and the
bamboo and pine leaves and pine needles of the adjoining hills make the natural
compost, fertilizers, insecticides and pesticides for the fields. The communities
believe that the secret of this best rice crop of the world is in the sacred groves, where the souls of the
ancestors live and are free from human interference. This should not give an
idea that the Dree Festival is all about Rice and Fish, which is certainly the
daily market, but the festival for me is more of the delicious Dog and Mithun
dry meat with lots of black Apong.
This was not that of a very planned or well thought journey
to Arunachal Pradesh. Casually I happened to reach Dibrugarh by Rajdhani
Express from Siliguri, after an overnight journey was picked up early morning
by Prashanta, the community leader who runs the Dihing River Camp with Help
Tourism. Next day, on the 3rd of July, 2013, we ferried over through
Bogibeel Ghat, where a 5kms long bridge on 42 pillars is expected to complete
by 2015. All these ferries in the Himalaya are a lifetime experience with
landscape and people in focus. Sometimes when I see these bridges being built,
I feel sad for an endangered Indian ferry culture, which supports thousands of
families and brings together diverse communities through their skills. The cost
of these bridges could have probably subsidised the ferry culture for the next
02 decades.
Sorry, I often get carried away with the traditional culture
of the rivers which keep people connected to them because of their day to day
use. The entry was through the bordering Assam town of Shilapathar and finally
driving through the Ego River Valley landscape, where Help Tourism hosts their
guests in community camp sites, I reached the Along area for overnight rest.
While I was entering through the Leikabil check-post, the Incharge asked me if
I was there for the Dree Festival. I suddenly remembered about this main
festival of Central Arunachal Pradesh and I left early morning the next day driving
through the Subanshiri River Valley reached Ziro late in the evening on 4th
July.
First, I must tell you all about the good things that can
happen, I met the Ambassadors of Northeast at the Dree Festival at Ziro. Arif
Siddique, the famous photographer for representing India’s Northeast through
his lively and typically Northeast photographs, Lou Majaw for his globally famous
musical voice from Northeast, Tagge Kanno for his understanding of the NGO
movement of Northeast at the global level and Asit Biswas the main story
builder for National Geographic and BBC Wildlife filming in Northeast were at
the festival and we all got together to an extended celebration in the evening.
Though the images will do most of the explanation, but to
talk about Dree, it is a festival of borrowing and lending of food grains to
balance stock at home and compensated after the harvest. The present fixed day
celebration of 5th July was started in 1967 in the Apatani valley of
Ziro. Though the festival is more about the Apatani tribe, but it remains
incomplete without the participation of the Nyishis and Galongs. The priests
and GaoBurrhas in warrior and traditional dresses complete the ceremonies of
chicken, egg and mithun sacrifice. The main headgear of the Apatanis, which has
been inherited generation after generation has a typical comb whose origin is
lost and may be found out through the picture enclosed. This headgear is taken
out, prayed and displayed only during the Dree Festival. The fusion of tradition
and modern fashion comes with a fine line and the elegance of this balanced
fusion is reflected in the entire festival. It is sometimes hard to believe at
places like the Apatani valley, which is supposed to be remote can display so
much of modern lifestyle too.
As I fly out of the valley with the setting sun in the
western sky, I believe that one day I would be flying out further East to the
neighbouring countries singing the success of India’s Look East Policy. An opportunity to find the origin of the hair-pin in the Apatani headgear, passed on from one generation to the other since time unknown.